13 Jun

Kootenays Thrills and Spills

Gang2.KootenaysWhen I told my mother that I was heading to the Kootenay Rockies to paraglide, heli-hike and white-water kayak, she replied, "You're too old to be doing that." Good thing I never listen to my mother. Seems like yesterday she was telling me to grow up. If, however,  someone told me that I'd be running off a 7,000 ft mountain, stepping out of a helicopter onto the top of the world, paddling an inflatable kayak and portaging --uphill in a wetsuit--I might agree with Mum.  But I can't wait to do it again. read more...
(National Post, Jun 2016)

13 Jun

The Garden of Eating – Poipu

Kumu.2Most tourists arriving at Linhue airport could be divided into two camps. In the first are intrepid travelers with oversized backpacks stuffed with raingear and hiking boots. And in the second camp, couples and families already in flip flops, picking up suitcases filled with beachwear. Backpackers are likely heading ``Mauka," inland toward the mountains.  For the rest of us our destination is "Makai," or seaward. We have the GPS in our rental car (essential here) set to the resort area of Poipu, on the island's sunny southern shore. read more... (Vancouver Sun, Feb 2016)
13 Jun

The Sunshine Coast

waterfall.8If you haven’t been to the Sunshine Coast it’s hard to imagine that a 40-minute ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay to Langdale will transport you to incredible scenery, a slower pace and boundless opportunities to connect with nature. And the 180-kilometre stretch of coastline is indeed sunnier and warmer than the Lower Mainland. read more (National Post, Jun 2016)
07 May

12 Reasons to Visit Iceland

   
  1. It looks like another planet
Eerie rock formations, black sand beaches, volcanic craters, icebergs in glacial lagoons: all provide incredible photo opportunities.  
  1. Thermal Springs
Either begin or end your trip at the world-famous Blue Lagoon —it’s close to the airport, but book well in advance. There are many geothermal springs scattered all over Iceland. Some are in farmers’ fields, others like Fontana spa have steam rooms and saunas. In Reykjavík alone there are 15 outdoor pools—it’s a social thing. The city has so much hot spring water they pump it into the lake so you can go swimming without freezing.  And you have to put your bathing suit on before showering.  
  1. Waterfalls
So many waterfalls, so many photo ops. Some are powerful and enormous, others are like a long cool drink. Many have their own rainbows. You can walk behind Seljalandsfoss –pack a raincoat. PHOTO  
  1. Icelandic Horses
There are four horses in Iceland for every human. These half-pint horses with punk hairdos are extremely friendly and sociable and love having their photos taken—especially when cajoled with a treat. The Icelandic horse is unique: it has an extra four-beat gait called a “tolt”. Several companies offer horseback excursions. PHOTO  
  1. Puffins
It’s a birders paradise. Arctic terns abound but the real show-stopper is the puffin, with their goofy cute looks. You can easily spot them at Dyrholaey,  a nesting area for these seabirds. Souvenir shops sell all things puffin. You’ll also see puffins smoked and pickled on many restaurant menus and I deeply regret taking a bite. PHOTO  
  1. Midnight Sunshine
Endless hours of sunlight means more adventure time. Between June and August you can play golf, go horseback riding and soak in thermal springs at midnight. It’s a bonus for jetlagged travelers coming from B.C. whose body clocks are seven hours behind: you can sleep until noon and still pack in 12 hours of activities.  
  1. Northern Lights
Although you can (sometimes) see the Northern Lights in our northern climes, Iceland is your best bet. If you’re staying in a hotel ask for a wake-up call so you won’t miss them swirling across the sky in the middle of the night.  
  1. No Mosquitoes, No Zika
Virtually no mosquitoes still puzzle scientists. Lake Mývatn is home to black flies that have been known to bite, but I can attest to being surrounded by black flies and walking away unscathed. Wasps are scarce. Felines flourish in Reykjavik and they’ll likely sidle up to you looking for a hand-out. They even have a Facebook page. If you’re afraid of snakes, this island is for you. And Iceland is Zika-free.  
  1. Best Road Trips
You can drive the Golden Circle 300 km route in a day and still experience spectacular landscapes. Horses and sheep flank the roadsides (the latter sometimes cross it) on your way to the Geysir geothermal field (yes, Iceland gave us the word geyser), where Strokkur hot spring dutifully erupts about every five minutes.  You can’t miss the Gullfoss waterfall and Kerid Crater Lake, formerly a volcanic crater.   Or circumnavigate the island. The 1,300 km Ring Road typically takes a week if you make leisurely stops for geothermal springs, waterfalls and rainbows, iceberg lagoons and volcanoes. In the summer months the road is safe and smooth.  
  1. Architecture
Inspired by nature, Hallgrimskirkja church, the tallest building in Reykjavik looks like basalt columns that surround Svartifoss waterfall. Harpa, the new concert hall and Reykjavik’s cultural hub, is also inspired by crystallized basalt columns. Its geometric constructions of steel and glass are designed to mirror the city. Visitors are encouraged to freely stroll the exhibition area. There is a bar, bistro and restaurant on-site.  
  1. Family-friendly
Most campsites and hotels welcome kids. Both indoors and outdoors are safe as there is no dangerous wildlife and relatively no crime in Iceland.  Not so safe is the lack of handrails and fences on cliff-tops (Icelanders aren’t as litigious as North Americans). Because most of the country resembles Narnia it’s no wonder that elves and trolls live amongst the eerie rock formations—and kids love a good story. One cave is called the Elves Church, where the legendary elves marry and some Icelanders also tie the knot here. Icelanders and their Viking ancestors have a way of looking at nature, of blending reality with myth. Iceland is magical. Kids, be forewarned: there are no McDonalds (they came and went).  
  1. It’s a seven-hour direct flight from Vancouver.
And there are good deals on Icelandair. Before leaving the airport upon landing, follow the Icelanders to the duty-free shop in arrivals and stock up on booze. Drinks are expensive.  So what are you waiting for?     The writer was a guest of Exodus Travel, which neither reviewed nor approved this article before publication.    
16 Dec

Putting Travel Under the Tree

Here are a few must-have items for your next trip. (Vancouver Sun, Dec. 2016) White Noise Machine: If you’re a light sleeper and can’t wear earplugs and the sound you hear outside your hotel room is not the gentle lapping of waves, a white noise machine is essential. When I heard a strange sound emitting from my travel companion’s room that sounded like TV static, I couldn’t believe she actually paid for this noise. But she was sleeping soundly and I was awake and cranky, thanks to the party down the hall and the sirens outside.  Next day I downloaded a white noise sleep app (there are several) but the 2lb machine is much better and worth every ounce, even traveling light.  I bought a Marpac at Bed, Bath and Beyond for about $40. (It even blocks the sound of snoring.) Duct Tape: Never pack new shoes. After walking a few hours I tore off a few strips of duct tape (travelling light, I’d wrapped about a metre around my hairbrush handle) and stuck them on my blisters. That evening I was heading out for dinner, wearing the black dress. After the full-length mirror check I reached for the duct tape—my dog’s hair had also travelled to Paris. And one piece of that strip still remains on the corner of my cracked lap top cover. Travel Insurance:  Let me preface this by mentioning I was in my 20s. Soon as my friend and I checked into the hotel room in Majorca we popped the bubbly, danced and jumped about on the furniture. As our mothers would say, we were “acting up”.  Jumping from one bed to the other I missed and landed on the concrete floor, one heel upward. Long story short: I spent a few days in a private clinic after a complicated surgery—having broken my foot in several places. Luckily my friend was sensible: she had taken out travel insurance for all of us. The hospital bill was more than my college tuition. Sharp Knives: I considered packing a few sharp knives in my suitcase (not into my carry-on) because I bragged  to my hosts in Provence that I knew how to cook.  No need, they said, they had plenty of knives. Being close to Marseilles meant bouillabaisse so next morning we met the fish boats as they came into harbour. I needed some tiny trash fish for the stock and some big fish for the bouillabaisse. We returned with incredibly ugly monkfish (I decapitated it), red mullet and red snapper and the venomous evil scorpion fish, also known  as red rascasse. I gutted and deboned everything with essentially a butter knife. Never again will I rely on the knives of friends.
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