The Garden of Eden

After touring the gardens at Sooke Harbour House, many dinner guests are amazed to discover that some of the ingredients on their dinner plate tonight may include begonia stems, nasturtium tubers, grand fir and day lily shoots. When some new arrivals hear that only local ingredients are used, (and haven't taken the tour) they think the food choices must be sparse given the location -- by the shores of Juan de Fuca Strait on Vancouver Island. But it only takes a glance at the extensive and diverse menu to dispel that idea. Other dinner guests may need a little coaxing to order some items they have never tasted, let alone heard of, such as octopus with gentian sage vinaigrette, or sweet cicely ice cream. And for those guests, it is reassuring to know that the list of awards bestowed upon this small hotel is long, including many Best Restaurant awards. They'll soon learn that weird is wonderful.

Byron Cook has been head gardener for 18 of the 25 years the garden at Sooke Harbour House has been in existence. From the very beginning, owners Sinclair and Frederique Philip had a goal: to serve their guests produce from a seasonal, local and organic garden and Byron has helped realize their goal. "The idea was to use indigenous plants wherever possible, but that posed a problem" says Byron, "although there are lots of indigenous plants to eat, they aren't that tasty - just try eating camas bulbs." But the Philips' looked upon their goal as a challenge, in more ways than one. Not only did they substitute ingredients -- lemon thyme and tuberous begonias replaced citrus fruits; lemon verbena and angelica stood in as a sweetener -- they did it at a time when the general public were not really interested in food from their own back yard. Back then, most upscale restaurant menus were marinated in French or American culture and featured items such as Coq au Vin or Cajun Snapper. The Philips have played a major role in defining Canadian cuisine today. Sinclair explains that  " All great cuisines of the world are based on regional cuisine and we wanted to use the same principles - although we also grow things from other parts of the world, the big advantage of growing indigenous plants is that they are disease free - the ideal plants to eat and garden with.

Their garden comprises more than 500 flowers, herbs and edible greens. Some were brought here from commercial nurseries as seeds or seedlings, but Sinclair also learned about indigenous plants from ethno botanist Nancy Turner, at the University of Victoria, and the First Nations people who had been growing and harvesting plants for thousands of years on Vancouver Island. It wasn't by accident that he learned how to make tea with the tender young shoots of the Grand Fir or cook native nodding onion rather than camas (especially the death camas!) Or that Nootka rose petals flavour sugars and impart a wondrous taste to sorbet.

"There is nothing on the property at Sooke Harbour House that isn't edible" says Byron. "Even the trees, which are the first things guests look at when I tell them we can eat everything." Several Grand Fir trees stand as sentinels on the property; the lime-green leaf tastes like a rain forest at first, then a lemony aftertaste -- (tip from Byron: don't plant near a house because the tops will break). Nuts from the nearby Pine trees would also be on the menu if it weren't for the pesky squirrels. Berries for game dishes are gathered from a 25 year old juniper tree and, not to waste an inch of soil, marjoram and lemon balm are growing around the tree's base.  Every square inch, with the exception of a small patch of grass, is productive.

At the entrance to the Inn, a tangle of tuberous begonias with dinner-plate-size blossoms fill window boxes and fall over hanging baskets, one of Executive Chef Edward Tuson's favourite plants. "The stem is acidic and fibrous like rhubarb" he says, "and often diced into little cubes and cooked as a sauce in place of lemons and limes". He also blends crushed petals into a sauce, as a base in mayonnaise or vinaigrette.

Another favourite is tuberous nasturtium, growing rampant over a sunny brick wall. "Roasting softens the taste and brings out more of the marzipan flavour [although] some say it tastes like horseradish", Edward says. He also serves it pickled, "and the tubers are versatile, you can serve them as roasted vegetables." A few more of his most used: "sweet cicely root - infused into fish or meat stock, cream, or butter", and another versatile plant because it is used for both savory and sweet dishes. "Hops shoots (as in beer) have an earthy, grassy taste with a bit of nuttiness…the young, tender, spring shoots are great stir-fried or simply in broth…"

From a distance, the garden looks simple, not unlike any other, but up close, so much is going on in such a small area. We walk over to the grassy patch (the only inedible part of the property) and Byron inspects the cloches. Lettuces, chickweed and winter cress thrive year round under the white plastic domes. Some plants, like miner's lettuce and chickweed, are native and will take over if left unchecked. Both have a bitter taste similar to chicory but are good additions to the salad bowl. Also vying for space is endive, arugula and chrysanthemum: most of the salad greens are grown here year round.

Moving down the garden path toward the seashore, we pass several clumps of day lilies. They bloom here from June until Christmas - almost a sub-tropical micro climate. Day lilies are a favourite in the kitchen; spring shoots are most delicious -- the stalks are stir fried and the flowers are stuffed, like zucchini blossoms. "Just remember to pull out the stamen and pistil first" Byron advises. He tells us that the Chinese call dried daylilies "golden needles" and are used in several traditional dishes.

The two prevalent flavours in the garden seem to be liquorice and lemon. The best lemon taste and the first to bloom in Spring is the lemon lily, but it is hard to obtain, so Byron suggests you find one from a neighbour and split the plant (or maybe get a cutting from Byron?) "It should be split every two years or the plant gets too woody" he says. As we move on a few steps, "Most gardeners know sweet cicely, but have you ever tried the immature seed pods?" he asks. "Chew it raw and it's just like liquorice candy."

We stroll around the south-facing side of the white clapboard Inn. The Bay Trees are well over 20 feet tall and grow five feet a year in 18 inches of soil -- this must be Canada's answer to Finhorn. Byron has moved almost everything in the garden twice, literally a moveable feast. "If you have something on your property that isn't working - not fruiting - try moving it or try a different variety but just keep at it" he advises. Several kiwi trees grow up the wall. Surprisingly, the hardy kiwi can survive colder climates, but Byron's favourite, and one that bears the most fruit, is "Red Princess" with red flesh the size of a big grape and with the same kiwi flavour. 

Harvest

Nishka, one of the Philips' daughters, is the harvester when she isn't at University in Victoria. When she started work here five summers ago, her knowledge was limited to a few plants. Now Nishka's day starts with a long requisition list from the chefs. However, what they want and what they get can sometimes be frustrating, especially for new chefs. Nishka checks the kitchen's "wish list" and, depending on which chef has signed the request, she assesses the level of importance. "The dessert chef needs flowering rosemary and lavender as an ingredient in a recipe and the savoury chef just needs it for garnish" she explains. "Some new chefs want things that are out of season -- invariably they want something three months before or one month after, never when it's blooming." And often there is competition in the kitchen. Chefs will come in earlier each day to ensure their list is filled. Or they will ask Nishka what is available first, before writing their wish list. But it's 'gardener's choice' when the weather turns snarly. And the gardeners "sometimes don't tell them a plant is growing until it is ready", says Nishka.makes sense.

The gardeners have tricks: they will replace an order of borage flowers (the flower doesn't easily part with the stem and it would take a few days to fill one bucket) with calendula. In the slow season, 15-20 items are usually requested by the kitchen per day but in the summer, the list is bumped up to 50. One chef might request "300 pieces of jolly-jump-up", but if "three-quarters of a bucket" is requested, this translates to 800 pieces. And each chef has preferences, different tastes. One may want only straight rosemary branches, another will request golden rosemary. Epazote is a Mexican herb and not a very attractive plant but one chef says he can't prepare beans without it while another chef can't stand the smell -- a little friction can erupt in the kitchen now and then, but generally, harmony reigns.

"But once you start giving something to the chefs, make sure you have a constant supply" says Nishka. She often sees chefs running outside just before dinner begins, pulling up a few plants -- they forgot to order something. This is a problem for the gardeners because whole plants can be uprooted, so whenever possible, the gardeners harvest. "The most content people are found working in the garden" says Nishka. Her favourite thing is making up the salad flower mix, which is separated into three containers. She has free rein to use whatever blossoms are available, from nasturtium to daylily. Next, the flower mix comprises all smaller flowers and petals, often the size of confetti. And thirdly, the greens are picked. An average summer day takes two people approximately three hours to gather ingredients from the kitchen lists. And Nishka also gives cuttings to guests and schedules daily garden tours.

Byron doesn't get much time off: The garden is a year-round operation (Sooke is situated in hardiness Zone 8 and seldom sees snow) and only a few delicate plants and tubers overwinter in the greenhouse, which was originally built to house the lemon Eucalyptus. It actually tastes like lemon, but don't try the peppermint Eucalyptus, it tastes like Vicks Vapour Rub. Tubers of all shapes and sizes are lined up in plastic buckets along one wall. Wasabi roots (just like horseradish) were purchased at a grocery store in Vancouver last year. Oxalis needs special care -- the tuber can cost up to $18US. Byron picks up a plastic bucket full of tubers that came from just one plant. Tuberous nasturtium is a completely different variety from the common annual nasturtium. Originally from South America, the cream coloured tubers are dug up in December and thinly sliced to accompany fish dishes. Even raw, it has a wondrous taste, mild with a hint of marzipan.

Byron acknowledges that it is the creativity of the chefs that's really the driving force in maintaining and re-creating the garden.  New plants are constantly introduced and some will go. The Philips' are about to get organic certification with all the ingredients grown in their two acre garden. "We buy from people who do not have certification but we know they are 100% organic", says Sinclair.  "But with our certification, it will give an absolute guarantee to our guests." This means that everything has to be able to grow organically -- not an easy task. Once a perennial is planted, it has to wait two years to be organic. And certification is a long and costly process. For example, all the raised beds were originally built from creosote railway ties and they were replaced with red cedar.

Although everything at the Sooke Harbour House has always been organic, now even the compost is certified organic, and only a few things had to be taken out -- apple trees proved too troublesome. Hmm, some things never change…

SIDEBAR

A few more unusual tastes from Sooke Harbour House:

Camilia: another plant that makes use of seed pods; dried and pressed it makes camilia oil -- widely used in India.

Passion flower: not a whole lot you can do with it besides tossing the sepals in the salad bowl or decorating cakes with the whole flowers.

Scented geranium: according to the Chefs, lemon scented "Mabel Grey" is the best variety, used in desserts and lemon sauce. Also look for chocolate geranium. "Mrs. Taylor" is another scented geranium with gorgeous brilliant scarlet flowers.

Fuscia: the fruit is edible with a spicy end taste and grape like texture if pickled. Don't eat the leaf though. The bud is the swollen ovary found just behind the flower.

Vine maple tree: edible yellow flowers similar in taste to elderberry. The kitchen deep- fries the leaves to impart a slight maple flavour.

House Salad

Edible flowers (pansies, calendula, tuberous begonia, tulips)

Winter greens, wild greens, and lettuce: choose from the following:

Chick weeds

Lamb's quarters

Wild sorrel

Mizuna

Corn Salad

Salad burnet

Radiccio

Chicory

Toss greens in a large bowl and add vinaigrette (recipe below)

Nasturtium Vinaigrette

6 Tbsp             hazelnut oil                                                        90 mL
2 Tbsp             nasturtium flower vinegar (recipe below)            30 mL

Mix together

Serves 4

Nasturtium flower vinegar

2 cups nasturtium flowers (unsprayed)

4 cups white wine vinegar

Pick the flowers before noon on a sunny day, check for insects. Place the flowers in a clean glass jar and pour vinegar over them. Do not use a metal container. With a wooden spoon, gently bruise the petals. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a dark cupboard for two to three weeks. Strain the vinegar into a saucepan and gently bring to a boil. Pour into sterilized bottles and label. This vinegar improves with age.         

Sweet Cicely Ice Cream

Sooke Harbour House Sweet Cicely Root Ice Cream Topped With A Spiral Of Candied Sweet Cicely Root And Garnished With Dried Strawberry Slices.

(Serves 8 to 10 people)

Ingredients For The Candied Sweet Cicely Root Spirals:

5 organic baby sweet cicely roots, washed and peeled.
(At this stage they are carrot shaped, and should be about 10 to 12 inches long)

White granulated sugar  2 cups

Water                                       1 cup

To Prepare The Candied Sweet Cicely Root Spirals:

1.  Preheat your oven to 200 degrees F.

2.  In a 2 quart sauce pan, bring the water and sugar to a boil.

3.  Place the roots in boiling liquid for approximately ½ hour or until translucent.

4.  Now,place the roots on a parchment lined baking sheet and dry in the oven for approximately ½ hour or until dry but not hard.

5.  Wrap the warm roots around a cylindrical mold or rolling pin approximately 2 ½ inches in diameter.  Let cool at room temperature in a dry environment.  Carefully remove from the mold and store in an airtight container until ready to use.

Ingredients For The Oven Dried Strawberry Slices:

Strawberries, organic, 10 medium, each cut into 5 slices

To Prepare The Oven Dried Strawberry Slices:

1.  Place the slices on a parchment lined baking sheet in a 200 degree oven for 2 hours or until completely dry.

2.  Remove from baking sheet and store in an airtight container until ready to serve.

Sooke Harbour House Sweet Cicely Root Ice Cream

Ingredients:

Sweet Cicely root, organic        1 pound

Egg yolks                                             8

White granulated sugar              1 cup

Milk, homogenized                               1 cup

Whipping Cream, 35%             2 cups

To Prepare The Sweet Cicely Root Juice:

1.  Scrub the roots under cool running water to clean.  Peel and cut into ¼ inch cubes.

2.  Put the cubed roots through a juicer.  Use a large holed screen, if you have one.  This will yield approximately 1 cup of juice.

To Prepare The Ice Cream Base:

1.  Place the milk and cream in a 1 quart saucepan.  Heat over medium heat until it reaches a simmer.

2.  While the milk and cream are warming up, place the egg yolks and sugar in a stainless steel bowl.  Place the bowl over a double boiler on medium heat and whisk the mixture until it is light yellow and somewhat thickened (until ribbons start to form as you lift your whisk).  Remove from heat.

3.  Then, in a steady stream, pour the cream mixture into the yolk mixture in the stainless steel bowl and whisk continuously. 

4.  When complete, return the mixture to the original 1 quart saucepan over medium heat.  As this cooks, continuously use a rubber spatula to scrape the bottom and the sides of the pan to avoid burning and uneven coagulation. Cook until the mixture is steaming and glossy.  This should take approximately 3 minutes.  Do not boil.  Remove from heat when the mixture coats the back of the spatula.

5.  Now, whisk the sweet cicely juice into the cooling mixture and when it is incorporated, strain it through a fine seive into a medium sized, stainless steel bowl.  Place this bowl over a larger bowl of ice to cool quickly.

6.  Freeze according to the directions of your ice cream manufacturer.

 

Ingredients For Garnish:

Sweet cicely leaves       40, approximately 3 inches long, washed and Separated from their stems

 

Assembly:

1.  Arrange 4 sweet cicely leaves around the center of the plate as if they were compass points. 

2.  With an ice cream scoop, place the ice cream in the center of the leaves. 

3.  Then tuck 5 heart shaped strawberry chips under the edges of the ice cream, on top of the sweet cicely leaves.

4.  Place the spiralled, candied root on top of the ice cream and serve immediately.

 

Recipes and Photographs: (with exception of photos of Byron Cook by Jane Mundy)

Courtesy Sinclair Philip

Sooke Harbour House,

1528 Whiffen Spit Road,

Sooke, British Columbia,

V0S 1N0   Canada

 

Email: sinclair@sookeharbourhouse.com

Telephone: 250-642-3421

One of Top Three Hotels in Canada, Travel and Leisure Magazine, Readers' Poll, 2004

Second Best Country Inn in the World, Gourmet Magazine, May 2001

Grand Award, One of the World's Eighty-Eight Best Wine Lists,  Wine Spectator 2004

Best British Columbia Destination Restaurant, Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards 2004

WORD COUNT: 3,089