EAT magazine
Subject: Hotel Dining
Issue: Mar/Apr 2005
Author: Jane Mundy
Revival of the Fittest - the resurgence of downtown hotel dining chic
Once upon a time, the only place in town to get a decent meal was at
a hotel. From 1910 right up until 10 or so years ago, the popularity of
hotel dining vs. restaurants headed off in opposite directions—north
and south. The disparity started during prohibition; restaurants were
no longer bringing in liquor revenues so most of them folded, leaving
only cafés and a few Chinese diners standing. Hotels and private
clubs, such as the Vancouver Club and Victoria’s Union Club, survived
and thrived thanks to the provincial government’s control of liquor
sales, leaving restaurants in the lurch until well into the 1960s.
Back then, diners had a choice of either banquet style or “continental”
cuisine, which meant anything that had a name sounding vaguely European
or not-of-this-continent. Duncan Holmes, a Vancouver food writer, recalls
a few popular downtown hotel dining spots in the ’60s, namely dinner
and dancing at the Hotel Vancouver’s The Roof on a Saturday night
and the Cavalier Grill at the Hotel Georgia “which featured great
steak tartare, lovely presentations of caviar, and, if you were lucky,
Rose as your server.” Holmes remembers how often prime rib—along
with baked Alaska for dessert—was featured in hotels, “often
served at the table, along with a neck-searing flambé every now
and then.”
For some of us, hotel dining memories conjure up troughs of chafing
dishes in warehouse-sized rooms with the obligatory chandeliers and stuck-up
waiters. For Janice Lotzkar, however, hotel dining is full of fond memories.
“In the ’70s and ’80s, my grandparents took us kids
out every Sunday night to a different hotel because it was familiar to
them. My grandfather went out for lunch every day and it was always in
a hotel, the Devonshire, the Hotel Vancouver or the Hotel Georgia. I remember
the tall-back chairs, the servers with black jacket and bow tie towering
over me and I was in awe. I had my first Shirley Temple.” Lotzkar
also remembers “a big silver dish with a monogrammed logo of the
hotel and prawns sticking out, big prime rib and cherries jubilee on fire,
Caesar salad done at the table in wooden bowls on floor stands, and shish
kebabs on the longest skewers that made our eyes pop out.” Janice
and her four brothers looked forward to Sunday night because it was a
special time to be with her family. Generally speaking, though, hotel
dining rooms were relegated to special occasions or business luncheons.
Fast forward to the 21st century. Dining out is as common as going to
the gym and hotel dining rooms have had to re-invent themselves. Atkins
or not, how often can you eat prime rib? But it’s not just the food
that had to change. With the birth of the boutique hotel concept came
unique, on-site dining rooms, often freestanding and some with their own
celebrity chefs, special cuisines and expensive ambience.
Hotel dining took a leap forward when hotels started leasing out their
dining rooms to notable chefs such as Wolfgang Puck at Postrio and when
downtown hotels started creating restaurants with their own separate entrances
and distinctive identities. Modelled after the famous San Francisco-based
Kimpton hotel group such as Masa’s and Postrio, Diva at the Met
has become the anchor for the Metropolitan Hotel. “It just happens
to have a hotel with the restaurant,” says Judy Ahola, manager of
corporate public relations. The renos for restaurants in boutique hotels
such as Diva at the Met and Bacchus in the Wedgewood Hotel spared no expense.
These hotel restaurants began to turn a profit, unlike the old days when
the hotel dining room was a lost leader but a necessary evil.
Hotel dining rooms are mainly of two camps: those with street access
and those without. Both Fleuri at the Sutton Place Hotel and The Five
Sails at the Pan Pacific have no street access, but they can hold their
own with the city’s top restaurants. For some people though, there
is always the stigma of hotel attached—they don’t want to
walk through a lobby or up flights of stairs. Those fortunate guests who
do make the trek, however, who do march onward and up those extra steps,
past the vaulted architecture, the gargantuan floral displays, and into
the uncharted elevators, are well rewarded for their quest.
There are still hoops to jump through for local acceptance, of course;
hotel restaurants promote being all things to all people, and this can
backfire and ferment ambivalence. Finding the right balance can be a crapshoot
and obstacles have stood in the way: a glut of rooms, a slow economy,
cuts in business-meal deductions and the biggie—a proliferation
of excellent restaurants. And there are higher costs involved. Labour
is often unionized, dining rooms have too many seats and the kitchen has
to stay open around the clock—it all adds up.
Luckily, hotels have more clout than restaurants when it comes to buying
power because they have to supply three squares a day plus room service
24/7 so it stands to reason that they can accommodate special requests.
Justis Raynier [[name is correct]] YES has his law office a few blocks
away from the Sutton Place Hotel and has been coming to Fleuri at least
a few times a week for the past six years, not only for convenience but
because they can handle any request. He is 100 percent vegan and the chefs
even developed a burger just for him. “I have my favourite servers
and they know where I like to sit,” says Raynier. “In the
early days, they were guilty of small plates—that’s a vegetarian
complaint world wide. [Servings] looked like something a bird would eat,
but that was six years ago and they responded right away—happily—and
I’ve often had different chefs come out and talk to me.” Service
matters.
[LINE BREAK HERE]
So do menus, food, sourcing, wine lists, decor and ambience. [[I’ve
added this line. A bridge seemed to be needed. OK? YES THANKS]] Below
you will find an EAT report on downtown hotel dining rooms in Vancouver
and Victoria that have it all: stellar service, stunning rooms and above
all, fabulous food.
VANCOUVER
CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL GEORGIA
There’s comfort in the familiar as the regular lunch crowd at As
Time Goes By in the Crowne Plaza Hotel Georgia can attest. And Janice
Lotzkar has come full circle. From a dinner guest with her grandparents
to director of Food and Beverage, she can definitely relate to the regulars.
“Many of our guests have been coming here for so many years, and
people have worked here for 25 years, they’ve spanned a generation
with the guests. When I say I work at the hotel to anyone, they have invariably
been here, either a wedding or a party or the pub downstairs, everyone
has a connection.” The Hotel Georgia has been standing for 75 years
... if these walls could talk. And testament that there are exceptions
to every rule of hotel dining success (e.g., must have separate entrance,
buffets a sure death), the restaurant is actually part of the hotel lobby
and the breakfast and lunch buffets seat a full house. Even though the
menu and the restaurant name are set to change, “some things will
always stay the same,” says Lotzkar, “the regulars would be
upset.” Such as their favourite Welsh rarebit. Executive chef and
sommelier Dino Renaerts did take the giant leap from “continental”
to informal dining, sending the silver and starched linens packing. He
looked at trends in the marketplace and came up with small plates, one-dish
bowls and heart-smart meals. Go for the steamed Quadra Island honey mussels
with garlic saffron broth and north coast smoked black cod with shiitake
mushrooms and edamame spring rolls, or roasted pork tenderloin with caramelized
onion jus and apple butter.
And lunch buffets are no fuss, no muss, a deal at $18.95 and, most important
for the downtown crowd, no wait. Janice Lotzkar [was the first in Vancouver
to develop an exclusive northwest wine list at the Raintree Restaurant
in the late 1980s MAYBE TAKE OUT REFERENCE TO THE FIRST IN VANCOUVER ENTIRELY?and]
has one of the best B.C. wine lists in town, winning the 2004 Best B.C.
Wine List award at the Okanagan wine festival.
Sleepover: Take the elevator home during special occasions
and holiday seasons for $89 based on double occupancy
Most notable feature: A stunning glass and stone balustrade
showcases the buffets
Perk: A bowl of Okanagan apples on the hostess desk ripe
for picking anytime and complimentary appies (with drinks purchase) from
5 p.m.-7 p.m. in the Casablanca Lounge
Best-kept secret: Prime rib on Friday and Saturday night
and traditional afternoon tea daily from 2:30 p.m.-5:00 p.m. in the Casablanca
Lounge
WEDGEWOOD HOTEL
Bacchus did the next best thing to cloning former exec chef Frank Dodd
and hired U.K. import Lee Parsons; he is certain to maintain the highest
of standards in this elegant room, considering his two-star Michelin background
under the tutelage of chef Raymond Blanc. “I think everything has
to be re-invented, otherwise you stay in a time warp,” says Parsons.
But some things are keepers, such as the excellent cheese selection. Parsons
aligns more with restaurants than hotels, although hotels are more challenging
and diverse. “It’s great to focus on one outlet, but in a
hotel you focus 24/7 and have to maintain standards,” he says. Experience
his focus in the cappuccino of white bean soup with truffle oil and salsify,
the Nicola ranch venison marinated in red wine and juniper berries and
served with caramelized chicory and juniper jus. “You can make good
wine from great grapes but not the other way around,” Parsons says.
In the coming year, he plans to develop a relationship with local farmers
and producers to ensure that Bacchus will serve the best regional products
at their prime. For now, go for the slow-poached (45 minutes) salmon that’s
nothing short of magical. Chef Parsons will be “checking the competition
at West, Lumiere and C restaurants.” By all accounts, Bacchus is
their competition.
Sleepover: B.C. residents’ rate available
Most notable feature: David Bierk’s paintings and
Morano crystal light fixtures
Perk: Complimentary amuse-bouche and homemade truffles
and biscotti after dinner
Best-kept secret: The pianist takes requests at the best
bar according to Vancouver Magazine's Annual Critics’Award (and
yes, you can flirt after 40)
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
Stepping into Chartwell from the lobby of the Four Seasons is like visiting
an upscale English country inn complete with blazing wood-burning fireplace,
dark wood panelling and (almost kitsch) murals of country scenery. But
the menu is far from old country. Instead it is locally (finally!) inspired:
try the B.C. salmon tasting appetizer; greens with Salt Spring Island
goat cheese crostini; endive salad with golden beet vinaigrette. The sablefish
with minted curry vinaigrette and smoked black cod with wild mushroom
jus proves the notion that stand-up comics and chefs have something in
common—timing. Cooked to perfection, not a second under or overdone,
both dishes are standout. Chef Wayne Martin’s “mix and match’’
menu with starch and vegetable and wondrous sauce add-ons is a welcoming
addition especially for vegetarians, thus allowing more choices. For carnivores,
the suckling wild boar rack is formidable as is truffle and herb-crusted
veal loin with braised salsify. The wine list with more than a dozen half-bottles
is well equipped for single diners, and many are available by the glass.
Sleepover: From $180
Most notable feature: Spectacular floral displays
Perk: Known for their unobtrusive service
Best kept-secret: Winemakers’ Dinner Series, three
both in the spring and fall
METROPOLITAN HOTEL
As well as having the reputation as one of the top restaurants in town,
Diva at the Met is also known as the training ground for chefs fresh out
of college. Three Bocuse d’Or chefs earned their stripes in this
prestigious kitchen so the foundation has been set for great talent. Exec
chef Ray Henry is back—with the launch of Diva in 1996 he designed
the city’s first exhibition kitchen. After some years away, he barely
stops short of pulling the rabbit out of the hat with his kitchen wizardry.
Try the showstopper lamb tasting: confit stuffed lamb’s breast,
sous-vide lamb loin and smoked lamb cheek: the latter is presented under
glass with a hot rock; once the glass is removed, aromatic cinnamon and
Moroccan flavours surround your senses. These are big, bold flavours.
Rather than following restaurant trends, the crew at Diva want to be
the trendsetters. For instance, a hotel guest walked to the nearby steakhouse
for lunch but it was closed; annoyed, he came back to Diva complaining
that all he wanted was a beef filet. “So we kicked it up a notch
and served a braised short rib with a 7-oz tenderloin and caramelized
vegetables. He came in every day for a week and just asked us what he
should have,” says Henry. They might also suggest that you try the
foie gras plate and lobster gnocchi to begin, followed by the most succulent
lamb loin with cauliflower and lentil cassoulet—robust flavours,
more mouthfeel. Consummate host and sommelier Robert Herman’s wine
cellar has more than 500 selections, from rare-vintage Bordeaux to a broad
representation of B.C.’s producers, including the Venturi-Schulze
winery. Locals in the know come here just for the desserts (try the signature
Stilton cheesecake) from internationally acclaimed Thomas Haas, all of
them spectacular and too numerous to describe here.
Sleepover: From $159 double occupancy including parking
Most notable feature: Open exhibition kitchen
Perk: Alignment with Senses and consulting pastry chef
Thomas Haas
Best-kept secret: Five-course seasonal menu for $75 or
with wine pairings: $115
OPUS HOTEL
Elixir is a favourite with local celebs and out-of-towners alike (it’s
on the Canucks preferred restaurant list, and rumour has it JLo and Ben
had their last meal here). But the big attraction is more than eye candy:
exec chef Don Letendre’s cooking is outstanding. His authentic brasserie
menu is direct from the Left Bank with long braises and deep flavours,
charcouterie and stinky cheeses. Chef Letendre’s classical technique
shines in dishes such as Hamachi “Rossini” with foie gras
torchon, spinach and Madeira reduction and unctuous veal cheeks so tender
they could be served with a spoon. And an often overlooked chicken dish
is also a must-have, almond-stuffed chicken leg with Pierre Robert cream
cheese, fresh tagliatelle and grainy mustard velouté.
Or try a few surprises from the Opus bar “street food” to
start: perfectly seasoned kimchee prawns with just the right heat to bite
back, marinated to order on a bed of raw bok choy with soy vinaigrette.
And a lamb chop with 50 Moroccan spices that will render you speechless.
Back to the mains, you can do no wrong by choosing the daily slow roast.
There’s a choice of four food and beverage operations inside the
hotel, although Elixir does have its own entrance off Davie Street. The
modern and sleek Opus bar serves up the “street food” menu,
and a pretty garden café brightens Vancouver’s rainiest days
(and is one of the best places in town for breakfast). There is also an
intimate and more formal dining room as well as the main restaurant space
featuring a horseshoe bar surrounded by antiqued red leather banquettes
and wood-panelled walls showcasing fin-de-siècle prints—very
old Montparnasse. As for the wine list, a lot of thought has gone into
it; if you’re feeling flush, ask for the Opus Reserve list. True
to bistro form, Elixir has superlative French country cooking at reasonable
prices.
Sleepover: From $189
Most notable feature: The bathrooms, especially from
the women’s POV
Perk: Sit at the romantic corner table where Ben and
JLo broke up
Best-kept secret: The celebs they don't talk about [[what
means? how can celebrities be a secret?]] sorry, can't think of how else
to say this - I mean celebrities staying there that we don't hear about.
PAN PACIFIC HOTEL
The view alone is reason enough to hike up a few flights of stairs to
The Five Sails in the impressive Pan Pacific Hotel. (It’s interesting
to note that 80 percent of guests during low season are locals.) Settle
in for a leisurely evening of eating in this comfortable, understated
room with blonde wood ceiling and west coast decor showcasing the night
lights from downtown to Lions Gate. Watch the precise choreographed dance
of formal service while perusing an eclectic menu orchestrated by executive
chef Ernst Dorfler and his talented sous-chef Masa Mabuchi. For lobster
aficionados, the bisque with a spoonful of lobster mousse on the side
is as aromatic and flavourful as the lobster salad with walnut truffle
vinaigrette. And if you really want to splurge, opt for the oven-roasted
lobster in a black truffle emulsion with local vegetables. Closer to home,
spiced hazelnut crusted local sturgeon in the company of white and green
asparagus as well as the classic prime Alberta beef tenderloin “Rossini”
topped with foie gras and Madeira black truffle sauce. And of course there’s
an extensive wine list to showcase the superb menu, but be ready to dig
deep into your pockets.
Sleepover: B.C. residents’ rate: from $169
Most notable feature: The view
Perk: Bonbons on dry ice and free parking
Best-kept secret: Opera buffet
SUTTON PLACE HOTEL
Waltz through the lobby of Sutton Place to Fleuri, an elegant, European-styled
room where both food and service are faultless and chef Michael Deutsch’s
European background and Asian influences create each dish with a built-in
“wow” factor. Each is a work of art, combining luxurious ingredients
without being ostentatious. And having free reign to source the highest
quality local ingredients whenever possible helps. For starters, aromatic
Thai shellfish consommé and delicate scallop dumplings or the trio
of tartars combining scallop, salmon and cucumber in a smoked tomato nage
are both flawless. The miso-glazed duck breast with honey sesame foie
gras, roasted eggplant and sushi rice in a shiitake mushroom broth is
testament to the perfect assembly of international and local cuisine combined
with European technique and regional ingredients. And Fleuri injects some
fun into fine dining. Try the mini haute hamburger—foie gras on
brioche. Not to be missed: the legendary chocolate buffet Thursday, Friday
and Saturday.
Sleepover: B.C. resident rates available; phone for
packages
Most notable feature: stunning floral displays
Perk: amuse bouche
Best-kept secret: jazz brunch on Sundays
HOTEL VANCOUVER
Tucked into that grand old dame of a hotel, Griffins has a deli buzz
and west coast brasserie look, from the vaulted ceilings to the black
and white check tiles along a hot and cold buffet that’s guaranteed
to elicit a few trips. The old adage, “if it ain’t broke,
don’t fix it” definitely applies as Griffins hasn’t
changed since inception: “It’s focused on value, large portions
and comfort in a friendly, fun environment,” says Food and Beverage
manager Greg Van Riet. The place bustles morning to night and, with exceptional
hotel skill, has something for everyone, from breakfast buffet including
an Asian corner with grilled salmon and nori to a diverse dinner menu
including Bengal curry and their signature Alberta prime rib with Yorkshire
pudding. Guests are known to pick up dessert before dinner is served (everything
looks so good they’re bound to run out), but of course, they never
do. And every wine is available by the glass.
Sleepover: $227 based on double occupancy
Most notable feature: The longest dessert buffet
Perk: Friendliest service
Best-kept secret: Saturday pizza and pasta buffet
FAIRMONT WATERFRONT HOTEL
Food and beverage manager Steven Stefaniuk credits the success of Herons
at the Fairmont Waterfront to the stellar daytime view (from every table)
through floor-to-ceiling windows and the expectation of being associated
with the Fairmont Group. But credit is mainly due behind the scenes: an
apprenticeship program with a culinary team, geared to their Pacific Northwest
menu using local ingredients. “We try to cater to internal guests
and look toward the local community to find a delicate balance, something
for everyone,” says Stefaniuk. Herons has permanent buffets for
breakfast and lunch, the latter geared to seafood and a key factor for
guests in the downtown core is speed of service. But it’s the superlative
dinner menu created by executive chef Ian Rennie and chef Patrick Sinclair
that will convert locals—from downtown to the ’burbs—into
regulars. The menu is full of surprises. To start, it’s a toss-up
between maple-roasted Osoyoos red krury squash velouté with cinnamon
foam served cappuccino style (and cleverly paired with a Riesling ice
wine), or warm Salmon Arm goat cheese with cherry compote and white peach
emulsion. (These guys plan ahead. At summer’s end, they buy 200
pounds each of red currants, white peaches and quince from the Okanagan’s
bounty and Cryovac the lot to use throughout the year.) Another tough
decision—Alaska scallop “saltimbocca” wrapped in prosciutto
with caramelized onion risotto and truffle butter sauce, or braised lamb
shank and spiced quince charlotte with mint gelee. All vegetables are
B.C. organic including Dragon carrots. Best to share everything.
Sleepover: from $269
Most notable feature: Fine dining on a summer patio with
views of the North Shore mountains
Perk: Chef Patrick loves to chat about food
Best-kept secret: The rooftop herb garden and summer
barbecue
LISTEL VANCOUVER HOTEL
The only thing Irish about O’Doul’s is the name (although
they have elevated mashed potatoes to gourmet stature); both food and
wine menu are predominantly West Coast. Nestle into this warm, woody and
nautically inspired room (or the spacious patio), listen to live jazz
and watch the swarms of Robson Street shoppers pass by. O’Doul’s
is well known for prime Alberta beef served on sizzling plates and Calvin
Deschene’s award- winning wine list (Wine Spectator Magazine’s
Award of Excellence for eight consecutive years) featuring Northwest wines.
Some 350 selections are on offer, and the cellar boasts 5,000 bottles—with
a reasonable markup. The list is user-friendly, presented in the order
of wines-by-the-glass, sparkling wines and half-bottles for cocktails
or appies, moving on to the big guns for main courses. Almost as famous
is the seafood sampler plate with enough bites for two, comprising delectable
slivers of Tofino cold smoked salmon, grilled Fanny Bay oysters, a hefty
crab and prawn cake—wait there’s more—sautéed
prawns and scallops. It’s a toss-up between Dijon-crusted rack of
lamb with fresh mint blackberry jus or the roasted five-spice duck breast
with mounds of wild rice mushroom sauté and sour cherry port jus.
There’s no such thing as small plates here. And there’s also
the famous eggs benny at Sunday brunch.
Sleepover: [[$150 double occupancy I’ve added
this. Jane had no rate. This is the present Web rate OK?]]
Most notable feature: Look up to the vaulted ceiling
Perk: complimentary YES, PERK MEANS IT IS COMP amuse-bouche
Best-kept secret: Private dining room showcasing vintage
wines (behind a glass case)
VICTORIA
HOTEL GRAND PACIFIC
For the serious gourmand, look no further than Hotel Grand Pacific’s
The Mark. This intimate room offers both privacy and expert service. Details
set the stage for a wondrous dining experience, from the hand-blown glass
vases on wood-panelled walls to sparkling crystal on linen tables. It’s
a wonder executive chef Alan Van Tassell has any kitchen time (enter the
capable and talented sous-chef Andrew Stigant, formerly of the Wickaninnish
Inn) judging from the incredible range of products he has sourced, mainly
from Vancouver Island. The menu reads like geographical highlights of
B.C., from Clayoquot Dungeness crab en croûte to Black Creek Venison
striploin with Marsala demi-glace to Salt Spring Island tofu fillet. Try
the slow-roasted succulent and flavourful fresh rabbit from Saanichton
or the local smoked albacore tuna, which is superb. A nice selection of
cheeses includes three from Moonstruck. However many courses you can manage
throughout the evening, make sure you leave room for dessert. There are
“three shades of chocolate” created for chocolate lovers:
terrine of Guanduja and sun-dried mountain berry; petit molten chocolate
gateaux and white chocolate frozen parfait. And the wine list is deep.
Loosen the safety belts, you’re in for a gastronomic ride!
Sleepover: from $149
Most notable feature: Only seats 28
Perk: The culturally sensitive tea service (e.g., Japanese
tea served in a $200 teapot)
Best-kept secret: Your table is yours for the evening
VICTORIA MARRIOTT INNER HARBOUR
Fire & Water Fish and Chop House can do no wrong with chefs David
Roger and Jeff Keenliside heading the brigade. Passion and enthusiasm
are evident in all their dishes such as the new take on surf and turf:
beef carpaccio garnished with crispy fried calamari and seared jumbo scallop
with beef short-rib ragoût. Their signature dish—from the
moment the doors first opened—is the mouth-watering prime rib à
la plaque: brandy-marinated rib-eye steak is deboned and coated in a spice
rub then seared and served with your choice (or choices) of expertly prepared
sauces, and a variety of accompaniments to choose from. All the steaks
are prepared the French way, marinated for three days, then served anyway
you desire. And they’ve already got a reputation for their clam
chowder made with delicate local Savoury (that’s the name) clams
and Dungeness crab cakes. Snuggle into this upscale yet comfy room for
the evening with its warm woods and elegant fabrics that play off the
natural beauty of Victoria and the Island. Or sit outside on the 55-seat
heated patio. It’s worth a trip to Victoria, even if you go no further.
Sleepover: from $119
Most notable feature: The un-noticeable service
Perk: Some wines are sold at only a few dollars over
cost
Best-kept secret: Spice rub recipe
[[Line space]]
Sometime back in the not-too-distant past, our concept of hotel dining
fell from grace, from grandiosity with chandeliers and white gloves to
competent but uninspiring road food. But the pendulum swings. Las Vegas
has made a comeback these past few years; even Emeril is there. And if
Vegas is anything to go by, there’ll be a shift back to traditional,
high-end hotel dining with all the bells and whistles, glitz and glamour.
And maybe, with the proliferation of casinos, grand hotel dining will
surface in the ’burbs.
But our cities have become an intellectual food place; information is
out there in places such as egullet.com and the Food Network. Hotel food
and beverage staff are listening to customer demand for higher quality
seasonal and local ingredients. They are also shifting to casual concepts
with lower prices and in so doing, their dining rooms are becoming destinations
for locals. As Diva at the Met chef Ray Henry says, “People don’t
just go out for special occasions anymore, we are a dining community.”
So next time you’re making a reservation, consider a hotel restaurant.
You’ll be pleasantly surprised.
And four more that scored 9 out of 10:
WESTIN GRAND HOTEL
Chef David Foot at the Aria is in fine form on the second floor of the
Westin Grand Hotel, as theatre-goers and hotel guests can attest. His
tuna and shrimp tower sets the right tone for duck with a delicious blueberry
sage sauce or caribou subtly scented with black cardamom. For locals,
best to go on a night when the Ford Centre is dark and make the most of
both exemplary service and food. The best thing about hotels, you can
treat yourself to the package deal: dinner, movie, back for dessert (try
the opera cake) and a sleepover.
SHERATON WALL CENTRE
Even though the Sheraton Wall Centre is Canada’s largest hotel
west of Toronto, a big chunk of Vancouverites think these towers taking
up a full city block are office buildings, making restaurants Indigo and
Café One two of downtown’s best-kept secrets. Indigo is currently
under renovations (check back in a few months). However, Café One,
though not on a par with Indigo (although it does have those impressive
Martha Sturdy light fixtures reminiscent of War of the Worlds), still
features the same menu by incomparable exec chef Andrew Court. The mains
are the full meal deal, “there’s no mucking about,”
says Court. His must-try is the free-range chicken with mushroom risotto
or mint-crusted lamb rack, and the sablefish is nothing short of sublime.
Save room for chocolate cake with homemade maple ice cream and mint gelato.
More than 150 wines stocked with many local selections ranging from $30-$750.
DELTA SUITES
With exec chef Michael Vilordia at the helm, Manhattan has a bright
and clever global menu. Like most hotel menus, this one is extensive and
designed to please a diverse clientele. Chef Vilordia seems to have done
this and gone one step further: he can also please Vancouverites, as long
as you can get past the ho-hum hotel decor. Roasted squash in butter curry
with vegetable chutney is stand-out, and for cutting edge presentation,
try wild salmon with ancho chili rub and avocado-grapefruit salsa on a
square flat tortilla. Now if only they could renovate the room to complement
the menu . . .
HYATT REGENCY VANCOUVER
Luckily for the Hyatt, chef Chad Minton presides over Mosaic. Otherwise,
the restaurant could easily slip into standard hotel dining in a rather
nondescript dining room, great for throngs of cruise ship groups wanting
to eat before 6 p.m. Instead, the menu emphasizes local, fresh ingredients
and changes with the seasons. Chef Minton sources innovative products
such as sword chop: similar in appearance to veal chop, dense and meaty,
you won’t find this cut of swordfish anywhere else in the city (but
it can be found on the endangered list). The new menu has been revamped
to offer more appetizers and smaller plates. Try the thinnest of pizza
or the toothsome slow-roasted barbecue baby back ribs. And he cooks a
mean steak.
When You Go
VANCOUVER
As Time Goes By, Crowne Plaza Hotel Georgia, 604-682-5566, hotelgeorgia.bc.ca/restaurants.html
Bacchus, Wedgewood Hotel, 845 Hornby St., 604-608-5319, wedgewoodhotel.com/hotel/bacchus.html
Chartwell, Four Seasons Hotel, 791 W. Georgia St., 604-844-6715
Diva at the Met, Metropolitan Hotel, 645 Howe St., 604-602-7788, metropolitan.com/diva
Elixir, Opus Hotel, 350 Davie St., 604-642-0557, elixirvancouver.ca
Fleuri, The Sutton Place Hotel, 845 Burrard St., 604-642-2900, suttonplace.com
The Five Sails, Pan Pacific Hotel, 999 Canada Place Way, 604-891-2892,
dinepanpacific.com
Griffins, Hotel Vancouver, 900 W. Georgia St., 604-662-1900
Herons, Fairmont Waterfront Centre Hotel, 900 Canada Place Way, 604-691-1818,
fairmont.com/hotelvancouver
O’Doul’s, Listel Hotel, 1300 Robson St., 604-661-1400, odoulsrestaurant.com
Aria, Westin Grand Hotel, 433 Robson St., 604-647-2521
Café One and Indigo, Sheraton Wall Centre, 1088 Burrard Street,
604-893-7150
Manhattan, Delta Suites, 550 West Hastings St., 604-689-8188, deltasuites.ivancouver.com
Mosaic, Hyatt Vancouver, 655 Burrard St., 604-639-4770
VICTORIA
The Mark, Hotel Grand Pacific, 463 Bellevue St., 250-386-0450, hotelgrandpacific.com
Fire & Water Fish and Chop House, Victoria Marriott Inner Harbour,
728 Humboldt St., 250-480-3800
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